| Replacing a Cue tip |
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| Anatomy Of A Billiard Cue |
The following is a step by step guide on how to replace a cue tip. You will need the following:
A. A Stanley knife or similar small sharp knife
B. Super glue gel
C. A small block of wood
D. Rubber band about 4 mm wide
E. 180, 220, 400, 800 and 1200 grit sandpaper
F. A new tip
G. Tip clamp (optional)
Difficulty Level: Moderate to Hard
Time Required: 90 minutes
Here's How:
1. Remove the old tip by cutting it off with the Stanley knife as close to the ferrule as possible, without cutting into the ferrule or wood of the
cue. Then scrape the surface clean where the old tip was glued to by using said knife.
2. Take a small piece of 180 grit sandpaper and press it tightly against the surface where the old tip came off.
3. While holding the sandpaper firmly against that surface, turn the cue around and around to sand the surface until it is completely level,
flush and flat.
4. Take a small piece of 400 grit sandpaper, lie it flat on a smooth, flat surface facing up, and sand the bottom of the tip in s circular motion
until the surface of the tip is also flush and smooth.
5. Take the new tip and press it against that surface. While holding it in place, turn the cue and tip around and around with a light in the
background to see if there are any gaps between the tip and cue.
6. If there are any gaps, repeat steps 2-4. If you are satisfied with the surface being completely flush, proceed with step 7.
7. Place a small drop of glue on the surface of the cue that you have just sanded.
8. Place the tip carefully, as centered as possible, on the flat surface of the cue where the drop of glue now is.
9. Press down hard on the tip, without moving it off center. Small amounts of glue might squeeze out the sides. This is normal, as long as
you don't have glue all over the place.
10. Take the rubber band, loop it around the cue shaft about 4-5 inches below the tip a few times and pull one end over the top of the tip.
Roll the rest of the band down the shaft until it holds the tip firmly in place with some pressure.
11. Let the glue dry for about 30 minutes.
12. Remove the rubber band, turn the cue upside down with the tip on the block of wood, and trim the overlapping edge of the tip very
carefully with the knife in downward strokes.
13. Use the 220 grit sandpaper to sand the tip even and flush with the ferrule in downward strokes only. Ensure that you do not touch the
wood of the shaft with the sandpaper.
14. Fold a piece of 800 grit paper around the tip and ferrule area, hold in place with thumb and forefinger, and turn the cue around and
around to sand the tip even more flush with the ferrule. Then do the same with 1200 grit until very smooth.
15. By starting with the 220 grit and finishing with 400 grit, sand the top of the tip in downwards and sideways strokes away from the center
of the tip while turning the cue in your hand until the tip is dome-shaped.
Helpful Tips:
1. Be careful not to cut into the tip deeper than flush with the ferrule with the knife when trimming the overlapping edge. If you do, you might
need to remove the tip and do it all over again with a new tip.
2. Never sand upwards against the tip with a rough grit sandpaper. This could cause the tip to become spongy and useless.
3. Don't expect your tip-job to be perfect the first time. Practice on old cues or house cues first. For a perfect job, take your cue to a
professional cue repair person. It will cost you less than having to replace a damaged shaft.
A. A Stanley knife or similar small sharp knife
B. Super glue gel
C. A small block of wood
D. Rubber band about 4 mm wide
E. 180, 220, 400, 800 and 1200 grit sandpaper
F. A new tip
G. Tip clamp (optional)
Difficulty Level: Moderate to Hard
Time Required: 90 minutes
Here's How:
1. Remove the old tip by cutting it off with the Stanley knife as close to the ferrule as possible, without cutting into the ferrule or wood of the
cue. Then scrape the surface clean where the old tip was glued to by using said knife.
2. Take a small piece of 180 grit sandpaper and press it tightly against the surface where the old tip came off.
3. While holding the sandpaper firmly against that surface, turn the cue around and around to sand the surface until it is completely level,
flush and flat.
4. Take a small piece of 400 grit sandpaper, lie it flat on a smooth, flat surface facing up, and sand the bottom of the tip in s circular motion
until the surface of the tip is also flush and smooth.
5. Take the new tip and press it against that surface. While holding it in place, turn the cue and tip around and around with a light in the
background to see if there are any gaps between the tip and cue.
6. If there are any gaps, repeat steps 2-4. If you are satisfied with the surface being completely flush, proceed with step 7.
7. Place a small drop of glue on the surface of the cue that you have just sanded.
8. Place the tip carefully, as centered as possible, on the flat surface of the cue where the drop of glue now is.
9. Press down hard on the tip, without moving it off center. Small amounts of glue might squeeze out the sides. This is normal, as long as
you don't have glue all over the place.
10. Take the rubber band, loop it around the cue shaft about 4-5 inches below the tip a few times and pull one end over the top of the tip.
Roll the rest of the band down the shaft until it holds the tip firmly in place with some pressure.
11. Let the glue dry for about 30 minutes.
12. Remove the rubber band, turn the cue upside down with the tip on the block of wood, and trim the overlapping edge of the tip very
carefully with the knife in downward strokes.
13. Use the 220 grit sandpaper to sand the tip even and flush with the ferrule in downward strokes only. Ensure that you do not touch the
wood of the shaft with the sandpaper.
14. Fold a piece of 800 grit paper around the tip and ferrule area, hold in place with thumb and forefinger, and turn the cue around and
around to sand the tip even more flush with the ferrule. Then do the same with 1200 grit until very smooth.
15. By starting with the 220 grit and finishing with 400 grit, sand the top of the tip in downwards and sideways strokes away from the center
of the tip while turning the cue in your hand until the tip is dome-shaped.
Helpful Tips:
1. Be careful not to cut into the tip deeper than flush with the ferrule with the knife when trimming the overlapping edge. If you do, you might
need to remove the tip and do it all over again with a new tip.
2. Never sand upwards against the tip with a rough grit sandpaper. This could cause the tip to become spongy and useless.
3. Don't expect your tip-job to be perfect the first time. Practice on old cues or house cues first. For a perfect job, take your cue to a
professional cue repair person. It will cost you less than having to replace a damaged shaft.
